Jeju Paradise

A few weeks ago, mid-April, Fulbright Korea held the annual spring-conference for all researchers and ETAs on the beautiful island of Jeju.
The conference lasted three days, and included numerous workshops about teaching, and culture, as well as time to connect with fellow Fulbrighters.

The conference was refreshing for two reasons:
1. I have not failed as a teacher. Discussing teaching techniques in workshop, and with fellow ETAs,  made me realize that I love my students as much as other teachers, I try as hard as other teachers, and I use many of the same games, and teaching techniques as other teachers. So in other words, while that doesn't make me an amazing teacher, it means that I am no worse and no better than other teachers; simply walking on the path of learning.

2. It was wonderful to spend an entire weekend speaking English. This might sound simple, or even obvious, but I had forgotten how much I love to talk and listen, and truly understand. My Korean skills are very limited, so while I can communicate enough to get by, in every day life I am more of an observer than participant. And it is tiring.

As refreshing as it was to communicate in my own language again, it was also a double edged sword, because I came back from the conference more aware of all the ways in which my Korean skills limit my ability to truly communicate and interact with my host family and co-workers. This frustration has been hard to deal with, and it has taken almost three weeks to arrive again at the quiet acceptance of my lack of communication skills, that I had before the conference.

The Koi pond at the hotel

Anyway, the best part of the weekend was the hotel, a five-star, luxurious building that included everything from koi ponds to golden, embossed elevators.
I think the best way to summarize the weekend is to share some photos below.

Jeju is famous for oranges

Traditional performance

Visiting with friends

Seongsang Ilchulbong is an old volcano at the edge of the island, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The weather, sadly, was not very clear, but still the view was breathtaking.

Acupuncture and Noraebang

These two things are by no means related, but when I think back on the past month, acupuncture and Noraebang stand out in my mind as the most noteworthy.

First, my hand injury (I fell up some stairs in November) is still bothering me, so my host-mom recommended acupuncture, and I have had two treatments so far. Not sure if it has helped yet, but the experience in itself has definitely been worth it:

The first time I went to the oriental clinic, I thought I had misunderstood my host-mom, she didn't really mean this tiny little place, with old-fashioned wooden floors, and the smell of ginseng in the air? I was expecting a doctor's office with the clean smell of disinfectants....the nurse ushered me into the oriental doctor's office, and a tall man with salt and pepper hair shook my hand. He was dressed in traditional Korean clothes, and preceded to ask me about my injury. Best I could, and with the help of some translated text (thanks to my friends) I explained to the doctor what had happened.

The nurse then took me from the doctor's office to a large room with sectioned off beds. I took off my right sock (my hand injury is on the left), laid down on the bed, and the doctor entered to put two needles in my right hand, and two in my right foot. He then said I should open and close my left hand (the actual injured hand) for a half and hour. After said 30 min, the nurse removed the needles and I went home. The next treatment was similar.

It was amazing to see the needles in my hand and foot, but not feel them at all. Overall, the experience was simply fascinating, and it remains to see if my left hand will improve with time.

This month has also been characterized by Noraebang, because a few weeks ago my host family's extended family came to our house for a party. We went out for Korean BBQ, and after dinner my host mom asked me if we should have a beer. I readily agreed (though I really don't like to drink much, I don't mind, and in this case I wanted to spend more time getting to know my host family's family). So my host mom, her sisters and I went to drink a beer, while the men of the family remained at the BBQ place. After a while my host-mom decided we should go sing songs in the Noraebang. I had told them that I enjoyed it, and I think they wanted to do something they could include me in. After a few songs we were soon joined by my host dad, the uncles and grandfather. (The kids were with a babysitter at home.) They all proceeded to sing various songs loudly (and quite well). The grandfather belted Korean oldies, while swaying to the tune, motioning for me to join in.

This experience stands out to me because it was the first time I think my host parents realized that they are allowed to have fun around me too. Even though the language barrier still exists, the experience showed both of us that it is possible to have fun and get to know one another more without speaking each other's language fluently. Ever since our Noraebang experience, I have felt like my host-parents are just a little more relaxed around me, and my host-dad attempts to tell me jokes in Korean more frequently (I still don't understand most of them, I just smile) and this in and of itself feels like a Christmas gift.

Why do this?

As my American family gathers in Virginia to celebrate Thanksgiving, I ask myself, "Why do what I am doing?" Why take a year off, knowing full well I want to continue my studies in grad school? Why spend a year away from your family, missing your favorite family holidays like Thanksgiving, and Christmas? Why spend a year teaching children when I know I do not want to teach children in the future?

Turning for the camera! Beautiful fall leaves...

These questions have answers, though the answers are different than they were when I first applied to Fulbright.

 When I applied to Fulbright, as a burned-out senior in college, I thought this year would be my "year off." A fun way to spend a year in between undergrad and grad school. I was wrong. This year is not a year off, because I am working 40 hours a week, trying to navigate a full time job in a culture and language I don't speak. And yes, I am having fun, but I am also working very, very hard.

Here are some of the many reasons why I choose to spend a year away from friends and family:

• This year is a year that is allowing me to grow from a college student into an adult. (Even though college students are technically adults...they also are not. I'm learning that now.)

• This year is teaching me to respect my own teachers in life more (shout out to my Roanoke College professors), as I realize through experience how difficult it is to be a teacher. 

• This year is preparing me for seminary by providing very practical experiences in trusting God and giving me time to evaluate and grow in my relationship with Him. 

• This year is showing me things that I do and do not want in my future. I know now, that I do not want to teach children for my entire life. But I do want to go into teaching. This year (and living with 3 little Korean girls) is also showing me that I want children of my own....one day, definitely not yet. 

We are in the shadows, but I am sitting with two of
 my host sisters underneath the tree.

• This year is teaching me to be patient and content in the moment. Waiting for my co teachers to translate an important meeting for me, or waiting for my little host sisters to get ready for school (quite a lengthy process). And most of all enjoying this year, even though my heart very much longs to be at school studying again. 

• This year is an opportunity to grow in humility. I am not always a good teacher, I make a lot of mistakes, but people are very gracious with me. I am not that great at Korean. I do not always trust God, and I do let fear get the better of me. I am learning that there is so much to learn, and that it is a good thing. 

Autumn in Korea features amazing vibrant colors.

Update: Teaching, Volunteering and Gyeongju

These past few weeks have been filled with new experiences teaching, a weekend trip to Gyeongju and my first time volunteering with the North Korean defector program, where Fulbright ETAs can teach English. Let me dive right in to updating you all on my life:

Mid October I finished my first round of teaching 4th grade, and started teaching 6th grade. The difference between the children is so marked. In just two years they turn from adorable little kids to teenagers who are tired of the system and don't mind telling you and showing you that they don't really care. The first week teaching 6th was a struggle, but I have since adjusted and am really starting to enjoy this grade as well. It is more challenging, because I have to work extra hard at engaging them, and I also have to discipline them more, something I don't like to do, but is necessary.
One of my 6th grade students gets up in the middle of class and starts hitting other students. This is unacceptable, so I had to keep him after class one day, to address this. Another of my students will start tearing out pages of his textbook in the middle of class...

Teaching one of my fourth grade classes 

Mid-October, Fulbright held its annual Fall Conference in Gyeongju, South Korea. All ETAs are required to attend various workshops on teaching, and other aspects of our grant year. The conference was a great reminder that I am here to teach, and offered new ideas and insights into our daily life as ETAs.

On Sunday the 16th, we toured Gyeongju and visited several sites, one of my favorites was Bulguksa Temple, which is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. Two reasons  this temple is so special is 1: Its size, and 2: It survived Japanese vandalism during the colonial period.  

Bulguksa Temple, Gyeongju

 My other favorite site was Daereungwon, where twenty-three ancient tombs of kings and noblemen of the Silla Dynasty can be seen. The tombs look like rounded hobbit hills, much simpler than the Egyptian tombs, but serving the same purpose. In one tomb over 12,000 artifacts including golden crowns, and jewels weapons, pottery and paintings were discovered.

Daereungwon, Gyeongju

Monday, the day of departure, a friend and I went to Wolji pond to spend a few hours journaling and sketching. Wolji pond used to serve as a "vacation" get-a-way for the royalty, and features beautiful buildings and landscape.

Wolji pond, Gyeongju 

 It was easy to imagine big gatherings of noblemen enjoying the finer things of life, while they gazed out across the water.

Wolji pond, Gyeongju

This past Wednesday, a friend and I took the bus to Cheonan, (about an hour away) where we volunteered with a North Korean defector program that offers English lessons to North Korean refugees for free. They are always looking for more teachers, and both of us have decided to commit our Wednesdays to volunteering. This means that immediately after work (4:40pm) we hop on a bus to travel the total 1 hour and a half to the language center. Then we teach one hour, and journey back to Cheongju. This means that we only come back around 10pm. So in other words, on Wednesdays I leave my house at 8:30am, and don't come back until 10pm. It's a long day, but definitely worth it! 

That is all for now! More updates to follow...

Working life

Okay, I admit it, I totally underestimated all the work my teachers did over all my years in public school. Teaching is so much more than just standing in front of the class talking about a certain subject. In my case English, and half the class is spent playing a game, in English. Teaching itself is so much fun!! But...then comes the rest of the day, when I am confined to my desk breaking my head over how to make the kids' rather dull textbook lesson interesting for the next day. Lesson planning...it's hard people!! I have been told, and do believe, that it will get easier with time. But for now, I spend 4 hours a day thinking about creative ways to make grammar and vocabulary fun. Only now am I truly beginning to appreciate the tremendous effort my teachers put into teaching me.

School officially started back last Thursday. For the next three weeks I will be teaching 5th grade, then 3 weeks 4th grade, and then 3 weeks 6th grade, and then switch back to 5th, and so on. Teaching itself is so much fun, and relatively stress free. So far the kids respect me, and I have not been confronted with the need for discipline. My work situation is also good. All my co teachers are very friendly, and the other teachers are polite and welcoming as well. Still, I think the knowledge that I am the only foreign teacher in the school, as well as the least experienced one makes me feel a sort of pressure in and of itself. I know that the teachers and principal expect certain standards from me and their watchful gaze makes me anxious. Especially because I do not speak their language and can not actually understand their communicated expectations.

In Korea, once or twice a semester, depending on your school, all teachers including the principal and vice principal go out to dinner together. Last Thursday this happened, and it was great fun! These dinners are largely designed to create a feeling of community and belonging. It is also a chance for co-workers to drink together, something that is accompanied by several cultural traditions. Pouring a drink for someone is considered extremely polite, and the younger should always pour for the elder first. When you pour, you must pour with two hands, and you must be kneeling (everyone is sitting on the ground, as is custom for Korean restaurants). When you receive a drink, it is also with both hands, and when you raise your cup to your mouth (with both hands) you also must turn away from your elder, because it is not polite to drink directly in front of someone. It was so interesting watching this happen at the dinner on Thursday. During the course of the dinner all teachers eventually made their way to the principal to pour him a drink. It all seemed like a well-choreographed dance, as people moved between the low tables, greeting each other, drinking together and then moving on.
As a foreigner people did not expect me to join in the tradition, and so I was left to observe quietly. It was a lot of fun, and my only regret is that I do not understand enough Korean to really know what is going on....maybe next time?

A day in Seoul and other thoughts

Recap of my trip to Seoul yesterday:
12pm-Gangnam
I am sitting infront of exit 11 in Gangnam, waiting to meet two friends from Roanoke college, I can't help pondering about this odd convergence of worlds. Three years ago I stood here as a study abroad student, my sophomore year of college, never dreaming or guessing that I would return to this very place as a teacher with Fulbright. Odd...nor would I have ever dreamed of meeting up with Roanoke college friends in Seoul, thousands of miles away from Roanoke college...odd...it is as if the me of the past: Sophomore me; the me of the present: recent Roanoke graduate; and the me of the near future: teacher; are colliding, becoming one, in another step toward adulthood.

7pm-Bus to Goesan
The bus is pulling away from the bus terminal, heading back towards Goesan. I ride through the streets of Seoul and think to myself, it has been a good day. I didn't know how much I needed it, but the day spent eating, talking and walking through Seoul with my two friends was a very good day. I remembered that the person I was as a college student is still the person I am today, even if circumstances and countries and cultures around me change, I am still me. I am so thankful for my friends who took an entire day out of their schedules to come visit with me!

Today:
After taking a 40 min walk through the small streets of Goesan, sweating buckets in the sweltering heat, I am sitting in my favorite cafe, blogging and catching up on my devotional. Less than one week left in this small town, and I make my big move to Cheongju where I will be teaching for the rest of the year. I am ready, nervous, but ready!

View of Goesan on my walk

Teaching 101 and a trip to Cheongju

Today's post features a brief summary of my first teaching experiences, as well as a day trip to Cheongju (청주), the city I will be living and teaching in this year.

View of Cheongju from a vantage point in a mall.
My school will be close to this area.

This is the end of the fourth week of orientation, which means I have been here for almost a month, and in only two more weeks I begin teaching at my school in Cheongju.....crazy!!!

These past two weeks I taught my first lesson plan. First I taught a class of 10 students who ranged between 5th and 9th grade. They were such great kids! I started off the lesson singing "If you're happy..." And the students participated loudly. The second lesson plan was co-taught with one of the other awesome ETAs, and we had the kids make moon colonies, to help them start thinking about the future tense.

Teaching both classes was a lot of fun, but it was also a lot of hard work. My respect for teachers has risen exponentially! I also learned that I have several teaching areas that need improving, namely class management and time management, but I think this next year will teach me a lot about teaching, and I will learn naturally to adjust and change my teaching style based on students' needs.

Yesterday a friend and I took a bus to Cheongju; the city I will be teaching in. We spent the day shopping for new "teacher" outfits, and enjoyed the air conditioned stores away from the stifling city heat. Cheongju is a city of about 800,000. My first impression was that it is a bigger city than I imagined. It will take me a while to learn how to navigate the many streets and alleys, but I feel ready to begin my adventure there.

This weekend we also went out for Korean BBQ.
My prediction for this year is that I will spend a lot of money on delicious food...

Weekend in Sokcho: Hiking and More

View of Sokcho from the hotel restaurant

Last week concluded with a weekend field trip to Sokcho, further in the north, on the east coast of South Korea. After a lecture on Buddhism in Korea and a trip to a temple, some of us ETAs spent the rest of the evening on the beach, listening to the waves break on the shore. I always find something oddly comforting about the water, as it connects all parts of the world together. The water that laps on the shore of Korea also touches the shore of Australia, Japan, and somewhere far off Europe. I know they are technically all different oceans, but the water is connected, and through that the entire world is. I like the thought.

Our lecture hall in the hotel

Saturday in Sokcho was spent enjoying nature as a big group of us went hiking in Seoraksan National Park. It was simply breathtaking, and if possible, I'd like to return in the fall to hike under colorful foliage. A few of us chose to hike to the waterfalls, about a 1.5 hour hike. Once achieved, hikers have the option of continuing on for .4 km, to the outlook. However, the .4 km are climbing straight up stairs. I am afraid to say I only made it half of the way before my head began to pound unbearably and my legs became jello. One of my many goals for this year is to one day make it back to Seoraksansan and conquer the remaining .2 km!

Korean hikers are so fit!!

After our hike, we payed 10 000 won ($10) to take the cable car up to the top of one of the many mountains in the park. The money was well spent, as I have never seen a more breathtaking view. The jagged cliffs, and the beautiful, resilient trees growing in high up places; the mist surrounding the mountains like a blanket. It was beautiful.

View from the cable car

View at the top of the mountain

Sunday we returned to Goesan for another week of orientation, Korean language classes and F.E.P. (Fulbright English Program, an English camp for middle school and high schoolers). Tomorrow and Friday are midterm days for Korean classes, and Friday I teach my first ever lesson plan in class for F.E.P. I am nervous...I think almost all of us are. But I am also very excited to finally meet students first hand, and begin the life long learning process of how to teach, something I think only experience can truly teach.

The Airport World

I am here. I made it! After traveling from Brussels to Istanbul to Seoul, my inner clock is completely turned around, and I know, I know tomorrow I will be dead. But not yet. Today I am enjoying the airport world that is Incheon International Airport.

My flight landed this morning at 10 a.m. Because of pick-up scheduling, Fulbright is only picking all the ETAs up at 5 a.m tomorrow. So to save money, I decided to spend the night in Incheon. Uncomfortable, yes; but beneficial to my pocket book. I payed 15 dollars to have my luggage kept for me in a holding area and then, 70 lb lighter and accompanied by my trusty laptop, I decided to explore the airport. My km counter on my iPhone says I have walked over 5 km today. Not too unusual, except when you imagine those 5 km in an airport. On my adventure I discovered the ice rink hidden on the bottom floor of Incheon. Amazing! Later I stumbled across a movie theatre, and decided to stop in for a screening of the new Finding Dory movie. Not before eating dinner at one of the numerous restaurants on the 4th floor. While enjoying a very spicy dinner, I was serenaded by live piano and violin music, as the airport regularly entertains its guests with live performances, both modern and traditional.

The thing that impressed me most about Incheon was the attention given to educating visitors about the Korean culture. In only one day, I experienced traditional Korean music performances, saw exhibits of Korean art, and other activities. I think Incheon has the right idea, and more airports should make the effort to reach the travelers journeying through; thousands, and thousands every day. Many of us are only transferring to another flight, yet still, I think many travelers would like to learn about the country they are sojourning in.

Jeju Island Day 1

Excerpt from my journal:

This was the easy part of the trail, soon after the path ended, and we started literally climbing over rocks

The first day here is coming to a close. I am exhausted. Stine (my roomie) and I tried to climb to the top of Mnt. Halla (tallest mountain in S. Korea) today. The hike is 9.6 km one way. On a good day, it takes an estimated 5 hours. Well, we seemed to have caught a bad day....this morning, I checked the weather forecast, which said, "0% chance of rain!" Once we arrived at the trail entrance, it was lightly drizzling, and rather foggy, but we were optimistic! However that didn't last long...before we knew it, we were drenched, having neither rain coat or umbrella. Still, we were determined, and hiked onward...for 3 hours.

Even though it was wet, cold, and clammy, the fog added an eery beauty to the forest.

I made 5.6 km of the trail, before I gave up. Soon after, Stine too turned around, and both of climbed down the trail. All 5.6 km. The whole hike, a little over 10 km (6.2mi), took us about 4 hours, and had the sun been shining, it would have been marvelous! Sadly, the sun was NOT shining, so our moods were rather more on the dark side....I have never, never been so drenched in my life!

The worst part wasn't the wet clothes, it was that my glasses kept getting fogged! ^_^

Unlike Seoul, Jeju Island is quiet. Silent; simply beautiful!

Insadong

A side street in Insadong

My friend and I set out this morning to find Bukchon Hanok village, where you can see traditional Korean architecture. After getting off at the correct subway stop, we decided to walk around Insadong first, which is a souvenir shopping area. Well...we never did make it to Bukchon! Maybe next time!

Street artists

The film shoot 

Along the way, we ran into a film crew. I'm not sure whether this was for a drama, commercial, or what not, but it was fascinating to watch the director talk to the actors, etc. After stopping in numerous shops, and after spending more money than I had meant to... (hehe..yeah...) we stumbled upon the Insadong-cultural center. Here you pay 3000 won (equivalent to 3 dollars) and get to play dress up in traditional Korean clothing! (Hanbok)

Below: The pictures

Traditional umbrella hat?

Beautiful!! ^^

Deoksugung (Palace)

Thursday, two friends and I went to Deoksugung (gung means palace). It is the smallest one of several palaces in Seoul, and simply stunning!

We ate dinner at a delicious Korean 식당 (restaurant), where an kindly Korean grandfather served us and talked to us in Korean, whilst we nodded our heads and smiled politely, pretending we understood more than we actually did. We then entered the palace. Entry fee is only 1000 Won, equivalent to less than a dollar.

Entrance to the courtyard leading to throne room

Although it was dark by now, the palace was well lit, we walked around the grounds, and entered the throne room. I say throne room, but Korean palaces are very different from any of the numerous castles and palaces in Europe. Instead of one building, with many different rooms and hall, Korean palaces are a construction of several buildings, each serving its own purpose. The buildings are intricately decorated in colors symbolizing various things.

Courtyard infront of the throne room

It was a wonderful feeling to walk where centuries ago people lived and served their king. Because it was dark, and rather cold, we were almost alone on the grounds. It was a little island of calm amidst the rising skyscrapers and traffic choir of Seoul. It was peaceful.

The throne room 

Later in the evening we joined a small audience to watch a Korean traditional performance. It was unlike anything I've ever seen. The dancing and music was more rhythmic than melodic, and several of the older spectators joined the dancing, enjoying the performance very much.

Dancing and drumming

My favorite part of the performance was seeing the expressions of the musicians. They breathed the music. When artists believe in what they are doing, it makes the audience believe. Through the vivid expressions of the musicians, I began to understand a little bit of the great history and love these people have for their country. 

 A short clip of part of the performance. Sorry for the bad quality, my camera does not do well at night! But hopefully you get the idea of what it was like!

S.A.C. Water Fountain and more!

NOTE: I wrote this last week, and completely forgot to publish it...so here it is! A week late....yeah....

Although today is only Tuesday, it was the last day of classes, as the rest of the week is vacation. Korea  celebrates thanksgiving on Thursday. Because of Chusok (as it is called) we get to have the rest of the week off! I'm feeling thankful indeed!
Here's a picture of my lecture notes on todays classes (19th century Brit. Novel and Studies in Post Colonial Lit), just to show that I'm not JUST having fun here in Seoul! ^_^





 Yesterday a friend and I went to the S.A.C. (Seoul Arts Center). The same place I had been hiking at a week before. Because we are students, we get to buy tickets at a pretty decent price. That night a Korean pianist was playing Chopin, and I was so excited to see her! Chopin is one of my favorite composers.

Sorry for the bad quality, I only had my iPod to take pictures!
Here's the outside of S.A.C.

The musical water fountain!

The two of us left early to take the subway, because it takes 45 min to get to the center. The subway was packed, as we accidentally hit rush hour. I can now say from experience, rush hour in Seoul is no fun. However we made it in one piece, with an hour to spare before the concert began. After getting our tickets, we sat in front of S.A.C. to listen to the water fountain. Every night the fountain plays music and the water dances in tune (or so it seems). It is simply beautiful. A lot of spectators were sitting around the fountain, simply enjoying the free spectacle. I am definitely planning on going back soon!
Here's a video of the fountain:

The concert itself was wonderful as well. Chopin has a way of mesmerizing your ears, and watching the talented pianist's hands fly over the keys had a way of mesmerizing the eyes. I definitely am a fan of piano (and not just 'cause I play it myself). All in all, it was a wonderfully successful night. God is definitely good, for letting me experience such a variety of things during my time here in Seoul.

Saturday afternoon ramblings

I'm sitting in front of 학생문화관 (Student Union Building). As I sit on the wooden benches situated in front of the building, a soft breeze plays with escaped wisps of my hair. The air is void of humidity, and thus quite comfortable to the touch of my skin. Sunlight breaks through the branches of exotic trees enclosing me in their shadow. Because it is Saturday, there are only a few other students walking across campus. I wanted to get outside, so I came here. I miss nature. I think that is what I miss most about my life in Austria. I have found no other country in which civilization and nature are so co-existant. However, there is nature here too. You just have to look a little harder. I think I will go to the Han River again soon. The vast expanse of the river is calming.

I have only been in Korea for little more than two weeks. It seems much longer! I have already learned so much about this country, myself, and most importantly God. I am thankful for this, and can't quite imagine how much more I will learn in the next three months. But I will, for there is always more to learn! I'm realizing this even in my courses. It worked out so I could only take three courses. This is okay, since it's the minimum of credits I need to take. My courses are 19th Century British Novel, Post-Colonnial Literature, and Korean Ceramics.

My two pinch bowels on the shelf for drying.

The professor teaching the literature courses has a unique perspective on English literature, I'm enjoying his lectures a lot, because they offer a non-native English speaker's perspective on English literature, history and culture. I am finding that English literature taught in English countries can be very biased. Korean Ceramics as well, has proved to be a fascinating course. Art is something I've always done. I'm not bad at it, but neither am I great. I just DO it. I'm especially aware of this with ceramics. Clay does NOT respond to my hands the way paint does, and this IS a bit frustrating. Perhaps I will learn to mold it into the forms I imagine in my mind...I don't know, but I do know that it is fun and poses a challenge! And that is what art should be!

Close up of the dragon fly pinch bowel. There are so many dragonflies around campus. It's quite fascinating, considering they are rather rare where I come from!

My adventure on Sleeping Cow

Apparently growing up in Austria has rubbed up on me somewhat, for the thing I've been dying to do since coming to Seoul, is to hike! Today I went to Umyeonsan to do just that. Google says this mountain, whose name means "Sleeping Cow" is one of the easiest accessible mountains in Seoul. Let me share my journal entry I wrote shortly after my experience to better illustrate my adventure!

My cool drink (much needed) and journal to
tell my story!

"I'm here at the SAC (Seoul Arts Center) cooling down with a cold drink. I came here to go hiking on the mountain behind SAC. I had planned to go find a quiet spot, pull out my Bible and sketchbook and 'be still' (Ps. 46). Well, it seems like that was not to be!

After getting directions from google, I set out from Ewha, taking the subway for 45 min. Despite these reliable google directions I so counted on, I walked aimlessly between towering skyscrapers for over an hour, before finally finding the SAC and the entrance to the mountain. Determined to enjoy the day, despite the setback, I started out on my journey, eager to take good pictures, to draw and to find a space to read. I also wanted to find the temple that was supposedly located somewhere on the rather imposing hill before me.

The beginning of the mountain trail. This part was easy! Believe me, it got a LOT harder after this!

Half way up the mountain; 5 forks in the road later, I was resigned to enjoy the nature around me, even without finding the buddhist temple. I paused on one of the dirt steps hewn into the pathway. Rummaging in my heavy backpack (I always come prepared!) I grab my camera for a picture. Glancing up my eyes met those of a kindly looking grandfather coming towards me, with chipper steps. He is dressed in cargo pants, a blue shirt, and wore one of those old fisher man's hats. He looked lively and hardly out of breath, making me acutely aware of my sweat-drenched t-shirt.

Some of the steps. These were NOT steep. They get worse farther up!

I smiled at the man, expecting him to pass by. To my surprise, he pauses in his stride and asks where I am going in wonderful, broken English. I am so surprised, and so pleased to speak to this Korean elderly gentlemen.
"The temple", I replied.
"With me" he gestured and smiled, motioning me to follow him.

Relieved to have found someone who would be able to point me in the right direction, I put my tired self into motion once more. To my surprise, the man made no attempt to leave in the other direction. Instead he led the way, all 1000 meters, up steep steps at a pace even Austrians would have found daunting!

While I followed behind this kind gentleman, huffing and puffing, he began a conversation. I told him I am American, and currently studying at Ewha, and that I've only been in Korea for 2 weeks. He was amazed at this, and complimented me on my broken attempts at Korean. I felt quite pleased at his kind words.

I also learned that the man was retired, in his 70s (another reason I was feeling quite ashamed at my lagging pace, profound sweating, and loud huffing and puffing). He has two daughters and two sons. One daughter graduated from Ewha several years ago. He seemed extremely proud of his children and smiled, his eyes crinkling pleasantly, at their mention.

Together we hike up to the outlook on the very top of the 산 (mountain). It is breathtaking.

Next my self-appointed tour guide led me down the mountain side to the temple. After showing me around, and explaining the functions of the different houses, I pulled out my camera and looked at him questioningly. He nodded and I eagerly took pictures. Sadly the lighting was very bad. Perhaps it'll suffice for a painting! [if so, I'll post soon]

The colors on the temple were stunning!

As were the intricate details! Sadly, as you can see, the lighting is pretty bad...

Together we set off for SAC, where he left with a smile and a handshake. I thanked him profusely for his kindness with the only Korean I really know, "정말 감사합니다!!" (Thank you so much!!)

The SAC Opera house. After cooling off a little, I decided to
sketch the building. I'd love to come back here and actually
go to an opera!

Completely spent after racing up and down an entire mountain in only 1 hour, I slowly moved to the vending machines in front of the SAC Opera house. I bought a 700 Won juice and sat at these silver chairs in the open square.

I came here expecting to spend alone time. Instead, my path crossed with a man who showed kindness to a complete stranger. I am so thankful I was able to meet this man, whose name I do not know, and through him learn a little more about the people and culture of this beautiful country."

A collage of me being exhausted, the trail and my cool drink as a reward! 

So there we have it: My adventure on Sleeping Cow! Was it an adventure? Although I encountered no snakes, or spiders, did not fall down a ravine, or anything dangerous; I think so. I met a random stranger who showed kindness to me, and despite language barriers, was able to have a conversation with me. Through this man's random act of kindness, reaching out to a stranger, I felt welcomed to his country and very, very thankful for the opportunity to be here.
I think I had a wonderful adventure, and I can't wait for more to come!