Jeju Paradise

A few weeks ago, mid-April, Fulbright Korea held the annual spring-conference for all researchers and ETAs on the beautiful island of Jeju.
The conference lasted three days, and included numerous workshops about teaching, and culture, as well as time to connect with fellow Fulbrighters.

The conference was refreshing for two reasons:
1. I have not failed as a teacher. Discussing teaching techniques in workshop, and with fellow ETAs,  made me realize that I love my students as much as other teachers, I try as hard as other teachers, and I use many of the same games, and teaching techniques as other teachers. So in other words, while that doesn't make me an amazing teacher, it means that I am no worse and no better than other teachers; simply walking on the path of learning.

2. It was wonderful to spend an entire weekend speaking English. This might sound simple, or even obvious, but I had forgotten how much I love to talk and listen, and truly understand. My Korean skills are very limited, so while I can communicate enough to get by, in every day life I am more of an observer than participant. And it is tiring.

As refreshing as it was to communicate in my own language again, it was also a double edged sword, because I came back from the conference more aware of all the ways in which my Korean skills limit my ability to truly communicate and interact with my host family and co-workers. This frustration has been hard to deal with, and it has taken almost three weeks to arrive again at the quiet acceptance of my lack of communication skills, that I had before the conference.

The Koi pond at the hotel

Anyway, the best part of the weekend was the hotel, a five-star, luxurious building that included everything from koi ponds to golden, embossed elevators.
I think the best way to summarize the weekend is to share some photos below.

Jeju is famous for oranges

Traditional performance

Visiting with friends

Seongsang Ilchulbong is an old volcano at the edge of the island, and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The weather, sadly, was not very clear, but still the view was breathtaking.

February Limbo

In Korean schools February is an odd month, because technically kids and teachers go to school, to finish the semester, which ends the last week of February. However, most of the kids already finished their textbooks, so we teachers don't have anything to teach.

My school requires me to come in to work every day, but I don't actually have any kids to teach, since we finished the English textbook in December. This is very odd to me, and I offered to teach some supplemental lessons, but the school refused. Instead my co-teachers are watching movies with the students. I am honestly a little confused and frustrated with a system that doesn't make the most out of the presence of a native speaker. Moreover, if they really don't need me....can I go home? I'd love to travel some more within Korea, but since I need to show up to work every day (even though I literally just sit at my desk reading for 8 hours), I am stuck in Cheongju until the last week of February.

Regardless of my frustrations with the school system, I am enjoying my months in Korea, as they quickly fly by. I am happy to report that every month living with my host family is easier and more enjoyable, as we learn about each other, and grow in language skills. My host sisters are a handful, but they make me laugh, and I am very grateful for that!

Yesterday, I accompanied my host family to a local concert hall, where the two youngest girls (aged 4 and 6) were performing in their kindergarten talent show. I don't know what I expected, but it definitely wasn't the elaborate, 3 hour-long program I saw. While I was impressed with the amount of work the kids put into their performances, and the professionalism with which the teachers, TV crew and moderator conducted those 3 hours, I couldn't help thinking if the emphasis on perfection took the joy out of it for the children.

My host sisters' kindergarten talent show. This was the stage. The audience was packed with parents and grandparents. The second from the left is my youngest host sister, who is 4.
 

Olafur Eliasson's exhibition at the Leeum Samsung Museum of Modern Art

 The beginning of February I spent two days in Seoul on a solo-trip. I wanted to get away and be on my own, so I spent two days visiting museums and city sights. Below are some pictures.

My favorite installation in the exhibit was this curtain of water and light.

Visiting the Iwha Mural Village in Seoul, the houses in this area are all painted with beautiful murals 

Winter English Camp 2017

Two weeks of English camp are over now.
I taught 2nd and 3rd grade, two hours each, for one week, and then 4th and 5th grade, two hours each, for one week.

It has been a really nice experience, because unlike the regular school year, I did not teach from a textbook but was able to come up with my own games and activities. I enjoyed that a lot. I also enjoyed having smaller classes and getting to know my students on a more personal level.

Last day of camp we had a food party where the kids were allowed to make snacks for themselves

Highlights from English Camp:

Duck Duck Goose, very popular with 2nd and 3rd

• Being physically pushed, pulled and urged by a second grader to join in the game of Duck, Duck, Goose. It felt nice to be wanted.
• Receiving a handwritten note thanking my co-teacher and me for our work. 
• Introducing 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th grade to a game my German family plays. (I translated it into English of course).
• Learning the Pitch Perfect cups song with 4th and 5th grade, and seeing the kids practice the song during break time. (meaning they actually enjoyed the activity enough to continue past class hours)



2nd grade boys. They were so sweet...why do they have to grow up? 

• Being told by two 4th graders (지은 and 회진) that I was the reason they signed up for English camp in the first place.

One of the 2nd grade girls wrote a note to my co teacher and me, thanking us for the camp.

The two boys with the scarfs are twins, and my co teacher and I only found out the last day!

2nd grade girls

3rd grade boys

The boy kept sneaking into all the pictures.

Happy New Year from Japan

This year I got to spend New Year's Eve with one of my best and oldest friends. I am visiting her in Japan, where she is currently working, and spent New Year's Eve with her and her friends. After an evening of Japanese New Year's TV, we went to bed for a few hours before waking up at 3 am to hike Mount Takao, from which we watched the first sunrise of the year, and then crossed to the other side of the mountain, from which Mount Fuji is visible.

The first sunrise of 2017, as seen in the Land of the Rising Sun

Currently, I am sitting in Starbucks in Tokyo, filling out graduate school scholarship applications, sketching, journaling and reflecting. I will be here until Sunday, when I return to Korea to start teaching my English winter camp. I am so thankful for this break and rest. Looking back on my time in Korea so far, I know I have only survived with my sanity in tact because of prayer and support from friends and family. It is not easy living and teaching in Korea. But it is fun, and it is rewarding and I wouldn't change a thing.

Some difficult things this past year:

• Language barriers. I notice this most, because it keeps me from truly being able to connect with people on a deep level. I love intellectual conversation, talking about books I'm reading, things I'm learning about God and other sometimes serious matters. I can't do this in Korean. And I miss it. 
• Cultural differences like directness. You can't just say what you are thinking in Korea. I notice this especially at work, where I often have to bite my tongue from pointing out the inefficiency of the system. 
• Being away from friends and family.

Some wonderful things this past year:

• Realizing that it is possible to connect with people with out language. I notice this with my host family who truly do care about me, and connect with me, even without speaking each other's language. 
• Learning to love Korean culture. I love the value Koreans place on aesthetics in art, music and daily life. I love the food. I love the patience people show me when I try my Korean. I love the Noraebang culture (karaoke). 
• Learning about God and myself. This year has been preparing me for graduate school in big ways. I'm learning that I need to grow in humility where my faith is concerned.
• I am learning that there are things I love about American and European culture.

Boarding the cable car to go half way up Takao-san (4am)

 

The temple on top of Takao-san

My friend, Elsa, and me in front of Fuji-san 

Tying our fortunes at the temple (Japanese tradition)

View of Tokyo (the famous skyline is visible, very small, in the distance)

Why do this?

As my American family gathers in Virginia to celebrate Thanksgiving, I ask myself, "Why do what I am doing?" Why take a year off, knowing full well I want to continue my studies in grad school? Why spend a year away from your family, missing your favorite family holidays like Thanksgiving, and Christmas? Why spend a year teaching children when I know I do not want to teach children in the future?

Turning for the camera! Beautiful fall leaves...

These questions have answers, though the answers are different than they were when I first applied to Fulbright.

 When I applied to Fulbright, as a burned-out senior in college, I thought this year would be my "year off." A fun way to spend a year in between undergrad and grad school. I was wrong. This year is not a year off, because I am working 40 hours a week, trying to navigate a full time job in a culture and language I don't speak. And yes, I am having fun, but I am also working very, very hard.

Here are some of the many reasons why I choose to spend a year away from friends and family:

• This year is a year that is allowing me to grow from a college student into an adult. (Even though college students are technically adults...they also are not. I'm learning that now.)

• This year is teaching me to respect my own teachers in life more (shout out to my Roanoke College professors), as I realize through experience how difficult it is to be a teacher. 

• This year is preparing me for seminary by providing very practical experiences in trusting God and giving me time to evaluate and grow in my relationship with Him. 

• This year is showing me things that I do and do not want in my future. I know now, that I do not want to teach children for my entire life. But I do want to go into teaching. This year (and living with 3 little Korean girls) is also showing me that I want children of my own....one day, definitely not yet. 

We are in the shadows, but I am sitting with two of
 my host sisters underneath the tree.

• This year is teaching me to be patient and content in the moment. Waiting for my co teachers to translate an important meeting for me, or waiting for my little host sisters to get ready for school (quite a lengthy process). And most of all enjoying this year, even though my heart very much longs to be at school studying again. 

• This year is an opportunity to grow in humility. I am not always a good teacher, I make a lot of mistakes, but people are very gracious with me. I am not that great at Korean. I do not always trust God, and I do let fear get the better of me. I am learning that there is so much to learn, and that it is a good thing. 

Autumn in Korea features amazing vibrant colors.

Fire drills in Korea

This past week our school had a fire drill. It was the most interesting and bizarre thing I've ever experienced. But by the end, I was convinced that we need to start replicating Korean fire drills in the States. It all started at 9:50am. The alarm rang, and my co-teacher and I quietly left our classroom.

Extinguishing the demo fire

The fire extinguishers 

My co workers attempting to light the box of wood. The lady in blue is my vice principal. 

We proceeded to merge with a vast column of departing students, who were all crouching low to the ground with handkerchiefs placed over their mouths. A few girls were giggling, but the majority of students took this drill seriously. All of us exited the front of the building and poured onto the sports field. After all students and teachers assembled on the field, two teachers carried a girl on a stretcher out of the building, to demonstrate the procedure if someone got hurt. 

The homeroom teachers took their classes to the back of the field, and lined up in orderly fashion, children still low to the ground. I understood now why there was a need for handkerchiefs, because red smoke was pouring out of the first floor windows. They had replicated fire smoke, because it certainly smelled like something was burning. A fire truck pulled onto the field to oversee the drill. My co-teacher, and another homeroom teacher lit a can containing wood and paper on fire. 

It took a few minutes to light up, and the fireman came and assisted them, but eventually the can was burning nicely, and after a few brief words from the principal, my co-teacher and the homeroom teacher proceeded to demonstrate how to use a fire extinguisher. After that the fire-department illustrated how to spray the field and the surrounding trees with water from a fire hydrant, to prevent flames from the burning building spreading. The drill ended at 10:10, after twenty minutes, and the teachers led their classes into the building once more to resume classes. 

When I think back to the fire drills at college, it's almost laughable. Because we knew it was only a test, when that alarm rang, my roommate and I would calmly put on our jackets, turn off the TV,  and stroll outside. I remember some people would finish their showers, or change from their PJs into regular street clothes, depending on the time of day. We definitely did not take the fire drills seriously. Because we never actually had a fire, this was not a problem. However, I think in the case of a real fire, we would have panicked. I admire the way the Korean system requires schools to perform at least two of these very detailed fire drills a year. After observing the drill last week, I think there would be a lot less panic in the case of a real fire. Maybe we need to start thinking of adopting such a system. 

In the back you see the children sitting on the ground, and in the middle one of the homeroom teachers is trying to light a can of paper. 

Balance

I am sitting at my desk, at the back of the fifth grade classroom. I just finished the first draft of the hand out for a workshop I am leading at the Fulbright Fall Conference. The workshop is about leading a balanced life in Korea. What I mean by this is trying to achieve a healthy balance between work-life and social-life, building new relationships here, but not forgetting old relationships in the States, etc. It is impossible to achieve the perfect balance, but I think it is important to strive for it. Too much focus on one area of your life will cause you to burn out.

I quickly realized this during the first weeks at my placement. Because it is my first time teaching, I spent the evenings at home occupied with planning out my lesson, and even when I was eating dinner with my host family, or watching a movie, thoughts of work would not leave me. Very soon after I started work I realized that I can not take work home with me or I'll go crazy, so now I try to restrict work to the 8 hours that I spend at school.

I experienced the same thing with my host family. In my eagerness to not be a burden, and establish a good relationship with them, I began planning my entire day around their schedule. The kids are very young, so they go to bed around 8pm, and so I also began making sure I would be home and in my room by 8pm, so as not to disturb them. When I was eating dinner out with friends, I would frequently glance at my watch to make sure I would be home at the time I told my host family.

My effort to please my host family is not bad, and I still try to be considerate of the little ones' bed time. However, I have realized I need to strive for a balance. I cannot focus my entire energy on living for other people, which I had in essence been doing up until recently. I need to be considerate of my host family, while also realizing that I am my own person, and it is ok for me to occasionally come home after 8 pm (as long as I communicate my plans with my host parents).

So in conclusion, what I mean by balance, is finding a way to carefully and consciously spend my energy on work, social life with friends, host family and myself in a way that gives equal attention to all aspects of my life. Only with balance, I think, will I avoid burning out in one or all areas.

Student life

It's been over two weeks, and teaching 6 classes of 5th graders, 3 times a week has allowed me a small insight into Korean students' lives.

A few days ago, my co-teacher gave each 5th grade class an exam, to test their knowledge of the unit we finished. Usually students sit in three rows of two students each, but on test day students came into the class room and upon instruction from my co-teacher immediately re-arranged the desks into six single rows of desks. This keeps students from being able to see what their neighbor is writing. What struck me about this was the familiar way in which students went through the action of re-arranging the classroom, taking the test and when finished, placing their hands on their head to indicate their completion. The comfortable way in which student performed all actions indicated to me that they were tried-and-true test takers. Their actions spoke of a weary resignation to dreaded exams. I have not taught in an American 5th grade class, but looking back to my own experiences as a 5th grader, I did not take exams and tests as seriously as they are taken in my Korean school.

Another observation:
Last week I went to the library a few streets from where I live. The library is close to my school as well. As I was walking up the stairs to the English section on the third floor, I passed the glass encased study room. Sitting at the tables were some of my students from 5th grade, diligently bending over their homework. My shock at seeing them working so studiously made me realize that, for me, 5th graders are still children. I don't think of them as serious students, trekking to the library after school to study. I certainly didn't think of myself as a serious student when I was in 5th grade. At that age school was about making friends, learning because it's fun, not more, not less.

The two observations above highlight an aspect of Korean student culture that (I think) differs from our own. In the US, 5th graders are certainly expected to learn much as well, however I think the US takes a more "what happens in school stays in school" approach. What I mean by that: US 5th grade students are expected to participate in school, and do their homework. But serious studying outside of school is not necessary. Instead, teachers and parents encourage students to balance studying with play outside of school. Here, in Korea, I think teachers and parents encourage students to study in school as well as out of school. Even in Elementary school parents pay for their children to go to academies for various subjects to study and learn so they will be ahead of their class. I think this is a big difference to the States.

However, I have also seen that more than anything, Korean 5th graders ARE still kids, and they joke and play as much as American kids do. It is just a different balance.

Working life

Okay, I admit it, I totally underestimated all the work my teachers did over all my years in public school. Teaching is so much more than just standing in front of the class talking about a certain subject. In my case English, and half the class is spent playing a game, in English. Teaching itself is so much fun!! But...then comes the rest of the day, when I am confined to my desk breaking my head over how to make the kids' rather dull textbook lesson interesting for the next day. Lesson planning...it's hard people!! I have been told, and do believe, that it will get easier with time. But for now, I spend 4 hours a day thinking about creative ways to make grammar and vocabulary fun. Only now am I truly beginning to appreciate the tremendous effort my teachers put into teaching me.

School officially started back last Thursday. For the next three weeks I will be teaching 5th grade, then 3 weeks 4th grade, and then 3 weeks 6th grade, and then switch back to 5th, and so on. Teaching itself is so much fun, and relatively stress free. So far the kids respect me, and I have not been confronted with the need for discipline. My work situation is also good. All my co teachers are very friendly, and the other teachers are polite and welcoming as well. Still, I think the knowledge that I am the only foreign teacher in the school, as well as the least experienced one makes me feel a sort of pressure in and of itself. I know that the teachers and principal expect certain standards from me and their watchful gaze makes me anxious. Especially because I do not speak their language and can not actually understand their communicated expectations.

In Korea, once or twice a semester, depending on your school, all teachers including the principal and vice principal go out to dinner together. Last Thursday this happened, and it was great fun! These dinners are largely designed to create a feeling of community and belonging. It is also a chance for co-workers to drink together, something that is accompanied by several cultural traditions. Pouring a drink for someone is considered extremely polite, and the younger should always pour for the elder first. When you pour, you must pour with two hands, and you must be kneeling (everyone is sitting on the ground, as is custom for Korean restaurants). When you receive a drink, it is also with both hands, and when you raise your cup to your mouth (with both hands) you also must turn away from your elder, because it is not polite to drink directly in front of someone. It was so interesting watching this happen at the dinner on Thursday. During the course of the dinner all teachers eventually made their way to the principal to pour him a drink. It all seemed like a well-choreographed dance, as people moved between the low tables, greeting each other, drinking together and then moving on.
As a foreigner people did not expect me to join in the tradition, and so I was left to observe quietly. It was a lot of fun, and my only regret is that I do not understand enough Korean to really know what is going on....maybe next time?

Settling into a New Life

It has been a little over one week in my new city, which I now call home for one year: Cheongju.

Last day at orientation, our orientation leaders are saying goodbye up front, as most of them are heading back to the States.
We owe them a lot for all the training they gave us! 

Last Friday, my wonderful co-teacher picked me up from Goesan after the Fulbright Orientation closing ceremony, and presented me with a beautiful flower bouquet from my school, Jeungan Elementray School, as a welcome present.

My host school welcomed me with a flower bouquet. 

She drove me to Cheongju and introduced me to my host family: host father, mother, and three little girls (3,5,7). The family welcomed me Friday night with a delicious cake and over the next few days showed me around the neighborhood. Our communication skills are limited, as they speak only a little English, and I speak only a little Korean. But with the help of a dictionary, we manage. I think as time goes on, it will get easier to communicate. My host sisters are full of energy and so cute I can't help smiling even when they are behaving naughty. As is part of Korean culture, the youngest always shares her food with me, and the others include me in their games as well. I don't think they understand that I don't understand them. Or maybe they just don't care. They speak Korean with me, and I think I will learn a lot from them.

My wonderful host family presented me with a beautiful cake, which we proceeded to eat with chopsticks!

Elementary school students don't begin the new semester until September, so this past week I have been helping another of my co-teachers teach the English camp. Tuesday welcomed third and fourth graders for one week. We sung Do-Re-Mi from Sound of Music and especially the boys participated with gusto! I also taught them a short dance from Zootopia, animals sounds and a Zootopia role-play. I had to practice the dance a lot...we all know how great I am at dancing! ;)
My co-teacher and I usually take our lunch hour at a local restaurant, as she is introducing me to various Korean dishes. I have promised myself to be courageous this year, so yesterday I tried larvae, fish liver and some kind of sea snail. It wasn't terrible, although I do not think I will willingly order any of the above again! Korean food has plenty of other delicious choices to choose from!

One of the three English rooms I will be teaching in. My desk and computer are in this classroom. I will have about 25-30 children per class. Overall, I will be teaching close to 400 students! 

There are over 8 ETAs in Cheongju. I am thankful for their presence and emotional support. During the week I do not see them a lot, although a few live in walking distance from me. However we are all trying to spend as much time with our school and host family as possible, to get used to each other and make the transition easier for all of us.

Last Sunday an ETA friend and I visited Sang Dang Church, which offers an English worship service. It was so good to have fellowship with others in a language that I understand! Both of us felt very welcomed and are planning on attending again!

This update has been a bit longer than most, but more has happened in the past week
than in the past six weeks! A new update to follow next week!
Peace out.

A day in Seoul and other thoughts

Recap of my trip to Seoul yesterday:
12pm-Gangnam
I am sitting infront of exit 11 in Gangnam, waiting to meet two friends from Roanoke college, I can't help pondering about this odd convergence of worlds. Three years ago I stood here as a study abroad student, my sophomore year of college, never dreaming or guessing that I would return to this very place as a teacher with Fulbright. Odd...nor would I have ever dreamed of meeting up with Roanoke college friends in Seoul, thousands of miles away from Roanoke college...odd...it is as if the me of the past: Sophomore me; the me of the present: recent Roanoke graduate; and the me of the near future: teacher; are colliding, becoming one, in another step toward adulthood.

7pm-Bus to Goesan
The bus is pulling away from the bus terminal, heading back towards Goesan. I ride through the streets of Seoul and think to myself, it has been a good day. I didn't know how much I needed it, but the day spent eating, talking and walking through Seoul with my two friends was a very good day. I remembered that the person I was as a college student is still the person I am today, even if circumstances and countries and cultures around me change, I am still me. I am so thankful for my friends who took an entire day out of their schedules to come visit with me!

Today:
After taking a 40 min walk through the small streets of Goesan, sweating buckets in the sweltering heat, I am sitting in my favorite cafe, blogging and catching up on my devotional. Less than one week left in this small town, and I make my big move to Cheongju where I will be teaching for the rest of the year. I am ready, nervous, but ready!

View of Goesan on my walk

Teaching 101 and a trip to Cheongju

Today's post features a brief summary of my first teaching experiences, as well as a day trip to Cheongju (청주), the city I will be living and teaching in this year.

View of Cheongju from a vantage point in a mall.
My school will be close to this area.

This is the end of the fourth week of orientation, which means I have been here for almost a month, and in only two more weeks I begin teaching at my school in Cheongju.....crazy!!!

These past two weeks I taught my first lesson plan. First I taught a class of 10 students who ranged between 5th and 9th grade. They were such great kids! I started off the lesson singing "If you're happy..." And the students participated loudly. The second lesson plan was co-taught with one of the other awesome ETAs, and we had the kids make moon colonies, to help them start thinking about the future tense.

Teaching both classes was a lot of fun, but it was also a lot of hard work. My respect for teachers has risen exponentially! I also learned that I have several teaching areas that need improving, namely class management and time management, but I think this next year will teach me a lot about teaching, and I will learn naturally to adjust and change my teaching style based on students' needs.

Yesterday a friend and I took a bus to Cheongju; the city I will be teaching in. We spent the day shopping for new "teacher" outfits, and enjoyed the air conditioned stores away from the stifling city heat. Cheongju is a city of about 800,000. My first impression was that it is a bigger city than I imagined. It will take me a while to learn how to navigate the many streets and alleys, but I feel ready to begin my adventure there.

This weekend we also went out for Korean BBQ.
My prediction for this year is that I will spend a lot of money on delicious food...